Seychelles 2018 Day 8 – Curieuse island, Giant Tortoise and Anse Lazio beach

The day started early as we had a boat to catch. Mommy woke up as early as 630am to start meals preparations while I lazed in bed. Closer to 8am, i tried to wake K up as he seemed to be still sound asleep. It took a while before he woke up, fussy. The trip till date must have gotten everyone tired. We changed into new clothes as it was the first day of the Lunar New Year, including new socks.

Praslin sunrise.

As it was almost 9 before we left for our boat, K skipped breakfast. Reference to the poster that was sent to my FB messenger, it said that the Sagittarius boat taxis was located next to Paradise Sun. As we drove into Paradise Sun and after checking with the reception, they could be reached via the beach. Since the carpark was full, I was told to park in a corner except for blocking the main entrance so I left the car near the roundabout and we walked through the resort to the beach.

Compound of Paradise Sun resort.
Loungers beside the beach.

The Sagittarius boat taxis was housed in a hut and there was a short queue already with people requesting different boat trips. The lady actually kept a record of us coming and we paid 50euros for 2 adults to go to Curieuse Island. We were given a kids size life jacket and boarded a speedboat together with another couple. The speedboat needed to be boarded from the beach and so I took off my sneakers and walked barefooted to board.

Sagittarius Boat Taxi hut.
Queuing at the hut.
Pano of the St. Pierre beach.
Boarding our boat in knee deep water.

The couple dropped off at a tiny beautiful island of St. Pierre, surrounded by turquoise waters that seemed like a great place for snorkeling. There were another 2 boats that were there for groups of snorkeling people.

Small St. Pierre island.
Stand up paddler.

Next the boat zoomed across the calm waters and in 5mins we arrived at the beach front near the tortoise area. The boatman helped us to pay the 200rupees per person island fees and as we informed that we would only take two hours, we were then told to meet at the beach at the Doctor’s house at 1130am.

Arriving on Curieuse island.
Panorama view of the beach.
Free roaming tortoise near the beach.

For the first 1hr, K was quite fussy upon arrival but slowly warmed up to the free roaming giant tortoise walking around. We saw some baby tortoise at a small sheltered area and later went to a group of tortoises under the tree shades to try to feed them. It was fun to see them and to take photos with them and to try to feed them.

Giant Tortoise….
everywhere!

Then it was time to walk to the other beach which the boatmen told us would take about an hour. So after washing my feet with the water tap, I put on my socks and sneakers before carrying K and started to trek on the path towards our rendezvous location.

The trek was easy if we were walking without load but this was quite challenging when you have a carry a 12kg boy all the way. The path wasn’t straightforward, as some of the path up and down the hills were rocky and uneven. We took about 45 mins to get through, with some stopping on the wooden path to look at crabs and K doing some slow walking on the bridge coupled with one or two rest points.

Sign showing directions either to tortoise or Doctor’s house.
Rocky path
Wooden bridge at mangrove.
Mangrove.
Crab seen on the mangrove sand.
Tortoise wanting to cross the bridge too?
Sandy path.
Panoramic view of mangrove.
1.7km between the 2 beaches.

Immediately upon arrival at the Doctor’s house, we left the barang barang with mommy on a bench while K and I went to look in the Doctor’s house. The 1st floor was an exhibit on the history of the house and island that I didn’t spend any time on as K wasn’t interested while the second floor had some display associated with the wildlife of the island.

Doctor’s house.
Mosaic on the wall.
Level 2.
Map of Curieuse island.
Level 1.

The boatman arrived a couple of minutes after 1130 and we all boarded the boat as he pulled it closed enough for us to get onboard (after I signaled for him to come closer as we were not dressed to get wet). Then it was a short 5mins boat ride back to Cote D’Or beach on Praslin.

View from the boat taxi.

We thanked the boatman and the lady who helped us off the boat (the boatman also returned the island fees tickets to us which should have been returned earlier) and went to one of the showers to wash off the sand (K had a little bit of fun scooping pool water) and proceeded to drive back to the apartment. I got off to return K’s meals containers and mommy brought back slippers for us to change us and we were then on our way to the best beach of Praslin, Anse Lazio.

Receipts for island fees.

The drive there was supposedly about 20mins but there were a couple of curves up and down the hill. We passed through a couple of beaches that looked pretty too but didn’t have time to stop. By the time we arrived, we saw a parking lot and a sign that say that we should park here as the lots near the beachfront would most likely be full. So as an obedient tourist, I did.

Anse Lazio parking.

As K had fallen asleep, mommy carried him and I took the rest of the barang barang. We walked a short 5mins walk to the Bonbon Plume restaurant, passing by another carpark lot that looked almost full but I would have gotten a lot if I drove in. We also passed by a small fenced area where there were giant tortoises and one was making out so loudly (2nd one I saw this trip) that must have woken K up.

Parking lot closer to the beach.
Tortoise enclosure near Bonbon Plume.

The restaurant was right in front of Anse Lazio beach and therefore the price came with it. We ordered crab curry and catch of the day and these came with a big bowl of rice, basket of bread and a small bowl of lentils. I was out taking some photos and arrived back to find the plates covered with my towel as mommy didn’t have hands to wave the flies (again!) away as she fed K.

Bonbon Plume restaurant.
Inside Bonbon Plume.

The fish was soft and nice as usual and I found the crab quite meaty and soft too, a little different from the crabs we had in Singapore. Mommy found it an issue to deshell and eat the crab but that was the only problem I guessed. The whole meal came up to 1025rupees as we had mango juice, apple juice, a coconut that didn’t taste sweet unlike those in Singapore, and scoop of vanilla ice cream that K loved.

Bread starters.
Salad,
Fish fillet.
Curry crab.
Juices.
Coconut juice.
Anse Lazio beach.

I brought K out to crash into the waves for a couple of times before we went to the toilet to clean up. Was warned by the staff there not to use the sink and was questioned if I was one of the restaurant guest in which I answered in a not so friendly manner. I asked for an alternative in which she brought us to the shower at the back and turned on the water for us to wash up. “Asked and we will show you.” Yup, got it.

Anse Lazio panorama.

Brought K back partially wet and used the beach towel to cover him as we drove all the way back to the apartment. Immediately we washed down all the sand in the bathroom and got ourselves ready for the afternoon nap.

All three of us knocked out soon enough but the evening part was more of the same old same old routine, since there was no real night life in Seychelles. Mommy had cooked her dinner and after all of us took a bath, we proceeded out for dinner. Thought we could get it from the takeaway mobile but it appeared to have closed so we returned to Pirogue Restaurant . This time there was a band singing slow happy beachy songs while we had our meals. I made my way to KKT supermarket to buy a bottle of mineral water so that we had enough to cook K’s meal the next day, before meeting mommy and K at the restaurant.

Band in Pirogue restaurant.

We ordered pasta for dinner, mine curried flavor with seafood while mommy’s seafood with spinach, but because the cheese turned her off, we had to switch (since curry flavour covered cheese well). She spilled her lime juice and we shifted table so that I could eat better, suggested by one of the kind staff.

Tagliatelle
Super cheesy rigatoni.
Coconut shake.

While K had fun with the steering wheel there, we finished the dinner in peace (more or less). With the addition of a mineral water for mommy to drink and my pretty nice coconut shake, the meal cost 605rupees.

We returned to the apartment for the routine night stuff with the addition of packing as this was the last night in Praslin. What made the night slightly more exciting was that we saw spiders in the room, not the common small ones that we were used to in Singapore, but those with the legs spread out reaching the size of my 3yr old son’s hand. Not one but 2! Thankfully these crawlies were just as afraid as we were of them, they quickly ran out of sight.

After K’s night cartoons of Messy goes to Okido and Jarmies, I struggled through 2 books of storytelling before we all went to bed.

Seychelles 2018 Day 3 – Anse Intendance, Anse Royale town and Maria’s rock cafe

We all woke up at around 7ish and K immediately got out of bed and went to the kitchen counter, asking for the packet milk. As he had seen it yesterday and I told him that I would allow him to have it in the morning, that was then his first task once he woke up. Funny.

Morning tasks involved the preparations of lunch for mommy and getting K prepped for the day for me. K just ate his breakfast of bread and cookies and watch TV while I had to clean up the crumbs after him while he walked around.

We had some milo that mommy bought from the supermarket the day earlier and I tried to make coffee which I thought was filtered but wasn’t. Used the filter from the machine to filter it manually.

View from the balcony

We cancelled our initial plan of going to Moyenne island as mommy felt that it was a little tiring for a day trip to end at 4pm, concerned that K, having woke up at 7am, lacked the sleep. Anyhow, we would also be seeing the giant tortoise in Curieuse Island. Instead we would be visiting one of the beautiful beach called Anse Intendance some 30mins away by car.

Packed and then we were on our way. Taking the coastal road, the roads became narrower as we drove. No wonder there weren’t many big cars around. Soon we saw the signage for Banyan Tree resorts. I passed it thinking that there was another turn as the google map didn’t reflect that. Had to make a Uturn afterwards which was not easy as I had to find space. Back to the road that led to Banyan tree, we reached to the end and found Banyan tree entrance and a dirt road. Wasn’t sure if the dirt road was meant for driving and asked a person standing nearby. He informed that we just that to drive through the dirt road and the parking for the beach was a 2mins away. So we went through a real bumpy one before arriving at an open space and parked our car there.

Public carpark for Interdance Beach.
Path to beach
A short walk

It was slightly drizzling but the weather managed to hold up as we made our way to the beach. Right after some warning signages informing about dangerous waves during the Sept period, and another talking about sea turtles laying their eggs on this beach ( its one of the beaches that sea turtles come lay their eggs from Oct), we came up to a powdery sand beach with turquoise water and medium size waves crashing onto the beach. We walked towards Banyan tree and chose a shaded area to sit down. There wasn’t any tables and chairs and shelters for public use, the loungers were for the resorts guests. There weren’t any cleaning facilities either. We were frankly under prepared as it was our first beach visit.

Interdance beach that was mostly empty early in the day.

Anyhow we still continued to let K enjoy himself. Took out the sand scoop where he dumped sand all over after he had sunscreen applied on him unwillingly. Managed to show him a tiny crab crawling on the ground. Brought him to the waters where the wave crashed in and he had such crazy fun, screaming as the waters flushed our legs in all directions. Needless to say, K was mostly all wet and sandy and myself too, only a little less.

Tiny crab on the beach

After spending about an hour there, the sun became quite unbearable and so we returned back to the shade and changed K out into a new set of clothes. Then we trudged through the sand back to our cars, during this time the beach was getting busier. It was amazing how these people could prefer such a time to go under the sun.

These public beaches were really left untouched, so much so that there weren’t even restrooms and wash down facilities (at least I couldn’t find it) like that you would expect in East Coast Park. The car suffered a sandstorm as a consequence but heck, if there weren’t sand in the car, we hadn’t been to Seychelles!

We drove towards Anse Royale town and K was visibly exhausted from the play, relatively quiet during the trip there. Town was really small and most of the shops closed. Didn’t even realized that we had arrived and passed through it 2 times! Then we saw a certain Kreol Kafe and thought we would stopped there for lunch. It was indeed good choice, the location was beautiful, beach set up with a beautiful view of Anse Royale beach. While we waited for our Hawaiian pizza to be baked, I took a stroll to the beach to get some pictures and feel the nice gentle waters.

Anse Royale as we passed in the car.
Kafe Kreol
Inside the cafe

 

Loungers near Kafe Kreol
Dining area on the beach
Pano of beachfront at Kafe Kreol.
Anse Royale in the background.
Clear waters

Since it was going to take some time, mommy suggested that I drive to the Anse Royale beach itself to get some photos – we passed through it just before arriving at the cafe was enchanted by its scenery! I drove and parked at the public carpark next to it, (luckily to slot in on arrival as it was a pretty popular beach with cars packing the parking lot) and got off to walk on powdery but packed sand and to the waters. It was warm and nice and the huge boulders and island made the place looked like a paradise! Couldn’t help but took a selfie and even video down the scenery.

At the roadside carpark at Anse Royale
Anse Royale beach
Anse Royale beach

Returned to the restaurant and K was finishing his meal. The water splashed on the tabletop of his child’s seat and an empty glass told a story of him being clumsy during lunch, usual of a kid. Pizza was just arriving and it was huge. So both mommy and me shared the pizza without ordering more food. We ended with one scoop of vanilla ice cream to cool of the sweltering heat and K took most of it, almost wanting to drink up the melted cream too. This ended up with a bill of 345rupees that included a 1liter mineral water.

Bread starter
Hawaiian pizza fresh from the oven.

I drove to the petrol station just opposite the cafe and pumped 5liter gas, expecting to bring the level back to a quarter. For whatever reason, after paying 100rupees, the level didn’t move at all (the attendant would be doing the dirty work as you drive the car and pay directly to him. He didn’t bother returning the change, it was about 18rupees per liter). I went to pick up mommy and K from the supermarket close by and drove in for another round, this time I specified by amount paid (200rupees) and the level shot to half tank! I over top up by a quarter tank.

We drove back to the villa and took some time to wash down all the sand, from the clothes to the toys and the body. The sun was shining brightly and it would be a sin not to sun our wet clothes. There was a clothes hanger outside the apartment and I hung everything that I washed there. Then we prepared for the afternoon nap, both mommy and K were  exhausted and felt asleep shortly and I took a short nap and woke up to jot down the happenings the 2 days that past.

Sunset at our balcony.

Mommy woke up to prepare dinner for K and a while later, K also woke up. After a bit of TV while we prepared to go out for dinner, we drove towards Maria’s rock cafe, 15mins away. Enroute, we stopped at a store to get water (to last us till the next morning, mommy need to cook. Though Seychelles tap water could be boiled, we always took the more conservative approach for K’s meal). There was a outside party going on across the road with many cars parked along side the road and many people gathered with some music playing in the background.

A tiny store still open where we bought water.
Just opposite was a local party ongoing.

We drove on and the streets became darker, contributed by the setting sun and the lack of street lamps. The restaurant was at a really ulu location and in a narrow street after passing Kempinski Resort. There was once at a location where I had to park very close to the edge so that the other cars could pass the one car width road. Nonetheless, we managed to get there and parked in front of the restaurant, that had a pirate theme to it.

Maria’s Rock cafeteria
Elevated restaurant, the only lighted place.

Ordered a meal of prawns and fish fillet and passion fruit juice and Fanta orange. The food was to be self cooked on a hot hot plate. Greasing the plate with their 2 formulae of butter with some unknown ingredients, the fish fillet and the fresh prawns were then put onto the plate, sizzling and releasing steam up into the air with the smell of BBQ seafood. Adding sauce to the one plate of rice and veggies salad (since we only ordered one meal), the dinner was pretty delicious! The prawns were fresh and the fish tasted tender and nice. The rice was tasting good with the sauce, a little bit like tobasco without the spiciness. As the portions weren’t enough for 2 of us, we ordered another one this time with fish only.

Menu
Juice and Fanta
Before cooking
End product
Fish, onions and carrots

While K entertained himself at the pirate ship that came with a skeleton steering wheel and a nice hammock to watch the stars in the clear night sky, we cleared the 2nd portion of the meal and I ordered a Creole Cappuccino, cappuccino with the addition of spice, to end the dinner. A meal that costed 707rupees.

Pirate ship next to the restaurant
Skull steering wheel
Scrapping spice over the cuppa.
Kreol Cappucino

The drive back was mostly done in the dark illuminated once in a while by the sparsely installed street lamps. As it was late (by Seychelles standards) there weren’t many cars around. There were however quite a number of people walking along the road. I had to drive slowly and a few times I had to brake because I wasn’t sure what I saw on the road. As a result, K vomitted in the car once we arrived back at the apartment. Quickly got K out and immediately cleaned up quickly hopefully that the stench will not remain.

The night was spent bathing in the tub, cleaning up the dishes and packing in preparations for our transfer to La Digue the next day. We slept at about 11pm, seemed like we had already adjusted to Seychelles timing.