SA 2013 Day 3 – Joburg to Sabi Sands Safari

Checked out after breakfast at the hotel. Tydon Safari was early to pick us up, and we met the rep while we were just walking back to the room to get our luggages. Took our last visits to the loo before quickly moving out to the recept area for check out and the 4 hr drive to Sabi Sands, our very first safari!

Nothing fancy about the drive though, it was pretty boring for a good 2hrs as the land was plain boring brown, not much of a view. We were talking with the rep to understand more about the safari, our uneasiness about staying in the wild, our parent’s uneasiness about youtube’s video of people getting mauled by lions in safaris. He gave us some information of the area as we moved eastwards to the camp. We were also given a choice to stay at a bushcamp, where the tents were actually within the reserve. There was an electric fence to keep out the big animals but it was still possible for smaller animals like cats to enter. We welcomed that idea, albeit the uneasiness! From our conversation, we learnt that he was actually the owner of the camp!

Power station as seen from the highway while moving away from Joburg
Power station as seen from the highway while moving away from Joburg
Eucalyptus trees fell in the foreground, probably for the paper mills. Large hectares of trees in the background.
Eucalyptus trees fell in the foreground, probably for the paper mills. Large hectares of trees in the background.

2 hrs later we stopped at a rest station for some coffee and a quick pee break.Bought red cappuccino to try, apparently this was only available in SA as I don’t see it offered anywhere else. Then another 2 hrs. We were told the view would improve and it sure did. Landscape changed from flat to mountainous and brown to beautiful green. Trees also became taller and taller, and grew in neat rows.

Dagga boys

As we turned in from the main road onto a sandy stretch, there was a perimeter electric fences that bordered the reserve. There we had the first glimpses of wild animals, but old Dagga boys. Buffalos that were too old and were left behind by the fast moving pack.

As we reached the camp, we were transferred to another 4WD to go deep into the reserve where we will be staying the night. We drove through the gate and as we moved along, we saw impalas and kudus in the foliage. The guide stopped the vehicle every now and then for us to snap some pictures and also gave us interesting info on those animals. Just before reaching the bush camp, we came up to a group of giraffes, our first close encounter of these gentle animals.

Giraffes that we saw close to the camp entrance
Giraffes that we saw close to the camp entrance

Our luggages were moved to the tent that we will be spending the night. From the outside, it looked like a normal tent. But on the inside, it felt luxurious! There was a queen size bed, a cosmetic table with mirror, aircon, toilet bowl and rain shower with hot water. The hot water was really important as it was still winter and really cold at night!

Shower

Our upgraded tent

Toilet

View of the tent from the outside
View of the tent from the outside

Light lunch was served briefly after we were introduced to our accommodation. After a short rest, we got ready for our first game drive. We were given a briefing on the dos and don’ts to ensure that our experience would be safe, fun and exciting. Climb onto the safari jeep with another father-daughter pair and we were off!

From where we are sitting, we see the driver and the guide that sits way infront of the jeep to be on the lookout for wildlife.
From where we were sitting, we could see the driver and the guide that sits way infront of the jeep to be on the lookout for wildlife.

There were many different wildlife that we were seeing for the first time but we all had the same target in mind. The big five – Elephant, Rhino, Buffalo, Leopard and Lion, where the cats were the most elusive of the five. The guides within park had a agreement to keep each other informed on sightings of wildlife which were harder to see (the predators basically) and would comms each other through walkie talkies. We thought we were really in luck when around the corner we saw a leaopard lying by the roadside!

Leopard 4

Leopard move onto the road and lay down again.
Leopard moved onto the road and laid down again.
The leopard left, walking underneath the seats of another vehicle. Lucky guests with such close views!
The leopard left, walking underneath the seats of another vehicle. Lucky guests with such close views!

Immediately it hit me, my camera lens did not have the range to get a closer shot of the animal. I had to use digital zoom which ultimately compromise the quality of image. How I wish I could get the 75mm-300mm telephoto lens when I had the chance! Lesson well learnt. The other guests had big lens and they were surely having a wild time! Oh yes, not to mention, our binos were tiny too.

We spent a great deal of time with the leopard before moving away in search of the other 5. Not much luck though. The place looked pretty empty lest some common impalas. We proceeded to the rest point for a short break and a sunset lookout.

Male waterbuck with the famous target board on its behind.
Male waterbuck with the famous target board on its behind.
Zoom on a Lilac crested roller, beautiful feathers and common makes it the most photographed bird in Africa, we were told.
Zoom on a Lilac crested roller, beautiful feathers and common makes it the most photographed bird in Africa, we were told.
Close to sunset, lone tree in a flat landscape. Makes a good place for rest.
Close to sunset, lone tree in a flat landscape. Makes a good place for rest.
Beautiful sunset view from the rest point.
Beautiful sunset view from the rest point.

Ate some beef jerky looking snacks and had beer while waiting for the sun to set. It was awesome. But then the cold also comes really quickly and that was when we knew were are kinda under prepared. On the night drive, we really made good use of the blankets that were provided.

The night drive was similar to the day drive except that the guide now was equipped with a powerful light that he used to sweep the area to catch reflections off the eyes of hiding animals. We did not see much though, just for a moving Jackal which was just to dark for a camera to catch.

About 7pm-ish and we were back at the camp after driving around for an hour or so. Dinner was served shortly after, around a campfire. We were given native cuisine bobotie and other local food stuff and it was absolutely delicious! After eating and chatting, we all retired for the night.

Campfire - providing warmth to the diners around it
Campfire – providing warmth to the diners around it
Nice native food
Nice native food

Back in the tent, it was really cold. We turned on the aircon to keep us warm. The challenge was to bath actually. I tried turning on the hot water but it didn’t warmed up after running the water for a while. I went out to the gas cylinder and tried to turn it to the hottest and tried the water again. It did get from freezing to not so cold so I went in quickly and got out double quick time too. It was still unbearably cold! We boiled water and pour it into the sink where my wife then use towels to wipe herself clean, for fear of the cold shower. We were wondering if there was something wrong with the heater or was this the expected temperature.This might not turn out to be as ideal as we thought, and how were we to survive for the next few days in this wilderness? Since there were no other forms of entertainment (no wifi, no tv, no phone signal), we read books, organise photos and slept early. Day game walk would begin at 6am the next day anyways.

SA 2013 Day 2 – Rhino & Lion Nature Reserve and Cradle of Humankind Tour

Our 2nd day started out with a buffet breakfast at the hotel which had american breakfast varieties and typical beverages and the food was pretty tasty too. We would be visiting the Rhino and Lion Nature Reserve, with a tour guide in a 2-to-go private group, the tour organised by the same people who gave us the City tour the day before. 30mins drive and we arrived at location, not before seeing some lionesses that were isolated from the main group of the reserve near the road. We were told that these lionesses are taken out in order for the lions to mate. All we see was them lying around, the male lion not in sight.

Lionesses close to the road isolated for mating
Lionesses close to the road isolated for mating

Later we drove on to the Rhino & Lion Reserve. Once past the gate and a while later, we started to see various types of animals roaming the fields.

Black Wildebeest with white tails
Black Wildebeest with white tails
Blue Wildebeest and a Saber Antelope
Blue Wildebeest and a Saber Antelope

This was somewhat different from a safari, whereby the animals were bought and bred within the nature reserve. The owners fed them, unlike in a safari where they had to hunt for their own food, only the fittest survives.

Zebras, Rhinos, Oyrx and warthogs all feeding on the grass left by the owners
Zebras, Rhinos, Oyrx and warthogs all feeding on the grass left by the owners

This was the first time we were seeing animals roaming around while we were driven around and it was really exciting. And these animals could be pretty close to the car.

A zebra was just around the corner while we are drove to the wondercave
A zebra was just around the corner while we are drove to the wondercave

Wonder cave tickets

Cafe for guests awaiting for the tour to start
Cafe for guests awaiting for the tour to start
At the cafe, we see a group of warthogs eating away at the ground
At the cafe, we see a group of warthogs eating away at the ground
Descended a flight of steps towards the Wondercave
Descended a flight of steps towards the Wondercave

After the flight of steps, we entered a metal cage like lifts that you typically see in a movie that featured mining. The lift descended slowly and the air grew colder. Once out of the elevator, we stepped into a dimly lit staleness of the wondercave, dominated by ancient hanging stalactites and protruding stalagmites.

One such stalagmite that grew like a mushroom
One such stalagmite that grew like a mushroom
This grew like the praying Madonna
This grew like the praying Madonna
Cave view
Cave view
Seriously heavy limestones
Seriously heavy limestones

It was not a really big cave. After some explanations on the naturally occurring formation and also some history about the pioneer miners and how they transported the harvested limestones out of the cave, and a little more walk around the cave, we were out. From there we continued with the drive around to see more animals.

More Rhinos feeding
More Rhinos feeding
The wild dogs are hard to locate, hiding from the sun
The wild dogs are hard to locate, hiding from the sun
It's not often that you see a police car get chased by a white lion. I wonder what the police is doing here anyways.
It’s not often that you see a police car get chased by a white lion. I wonder what the police is doing here anyways.
White lion standing on the road in front of our car
White lion standing on the road in front of our car
Eventually they were chased off the road to the sides
Eventually they were chased off the road to the sides

The lions were getting hungry and were actually waiting close to the entrance of their enclosure. Upon checking the brochure, we saw that it was feeding day. They kinda knew that they were going to be fed and thus was waiting for room service. We were told that if we hadn’t left the enclosure before the lions camp there, we might not be able to leave as the gates to the enclosures were manned by humans and thus it would be too dangerous for the people to open the gates for us.

Next, we drove to the cheetah enclosure and also there is a separate enclosure for mating purpose. As we move along, we saw a cheetah just lying by the road.

Sleepy cheetah by the road as we drove by
Sleepy cheetah by the road as we drove by
Nice Saber Antelope
Nice Saber Antelope
Elands. Soon these horned herbivores become confusing to differentiate.
Elands. Soon these horned herbivores become confusing to differentiate.
Next we visit the education center where there are young animals and recuperating injured animals
Next we visit the education center where there are young animals and recuperating injured animals
Young giraffe at the entrance
Young giraffe at the entrance
Celebrity animals with names
Celebrity animals with names

ZY with white lion pups 5

ZY with white lion pups 12

I visited the white lion cubs and these lovable furballs were really irresistible. There was one which gave a nice deep growl though it was still that small.

Secretary bird
Secretary bird
Ground hornbill
Ground hornbill

Injured birds that are recuperating at the reserve.

Unfriendly neighbours - Hyena and Tiger pacing restlessly
Unfriendly neighbours – Hyena and Tiger pacing restlessly
Flamingoes
Flamingoes
Shot this photo when the young giraffe poke its head across the barrier over me
Shot this photo when the young giraffe poke its head across the barrier over me

Soon it was time to leave the animals and proceed to UNESCO Cradle of humankind, to learn more on the evolution of humankind. We had lunch at the cafe near the Sterkfontein Cave before going for the tour, which begins every hour.

More info

Skulls

Evolution of humans

Various information board giving information on the famous Mrs Ples, carbon dating and evolution of humans.

Mrs Ples model

Little foot model

Replicas of Mrs Ples and Little foot, both found in the Sterkfontein Cave.

2nd Cave exploration
2nd Cave exploration
Portion of the cave known as the elephant chamber, shaped like an elephant
Portion of the cave known as the elephant chamber, shaped like an elephant

Very deep long lake, one diver died

Lake within a cave. This lake ran deep and long. A diver was said to have gotten lost when diving and got up a wrong opening. In the end he died whilst trying to find his way out.

Lucky nose of Broom, Mrs Ples founder

Statue of Dr Broom at the exit of the cave. The nose and hands are especially shiny as people believe that when you touch the nose you get luck and the hands you get knowledge. (or vice versa)

The cave tour marked the end of day of touring Joburg. The next day we would be travelling to Kruger NP for our first taste of safari.

Saw this Beetle Limo on the way back to our hotel
Saw this Beetle Limo on the way back to our hotel

We wanted to go elsewhere for food but wasn’t sure of the place. The guide recommended 2 places, Eastgate shopping Mall or Emperor’s palace. We thought shopping mall and the recept arranged for a private transfer via Benz about 15mins from the hotel. 400Rands return trip.

Cars on show for purchase in the middle of the mall
Cars on show for purchase in the middle of the mall

Shopped a little but was disappointed to see that most part of the mall was closed. It was only about 6pm, probably because there weren’t many shoppers? There weren’t alot of choices on food either, mostly the common fast food that was available elsewhere. We made a choice and had Wimpy’s for dinner.

Dinner at Wimpy
Dinner at Wimpy

Went back to the hotel for an early night, in preparations for an awesome safari day!

SA 2013 Day 1 – Pretoria and Joburg City tour photos

Day 1: Pretoria and Joburg City Tour

We arrived early in the morning (6-ish) in Joburg, the airport was packed with passengers even at that unearthly hour. Immigration processing was not too bad, we cleared the customs in probably under an hour. I booked the City Lodge OR Tambo within the airport for the ease of just walking to our accommodation from the departure hall. That would also prevent any unnecessary taxi scams (if there were) and avoid the city for fear of its rampart criminals (which was clearly just me being overly worried). There were as usual porters whom were enthusiastic to help to move your luggages which you could politely decline or be expected to pay a tip for his service, which we did though he expected 200R from us, way too much.

Check in was smooth, room was big, nice and comfy beds. There was a safe which was good for storing the wads of cash that we brought for the whole trip and the other gadgets that we did not want to carry around while we toured Joburg.

Modern design, Wifi is good but free for only 15mins and payable thereafter.
Modern design, Wifi is good but free for only 15mins and payable thereafter.
Love the keycards though!
Love the keycards though!

Unisa biggest university

After taking a rest, we had to go meet up the tour guide at the lobby for the Pretoria and Joburg tour. Soon we were off in a car to Pretoria, administrative capital of SA. We passed by Unisa, biggest university in Africa enroute to Pretoria.

Voortrekker Monument
Voortrekker Monument

We visited the Voortrekker Monument which gave some history of the struggles in the early days of SA

Diagonal shot of monument

Blood river 1838

Reliefs on walls depicting history. The lower pictures showed the battle of blood river of 1838

From basement

At the basement we saw the sarcophagus in memory for the Voortrekkers who were sacrificed. This lighting reminded me of a halo.

Women tell story through tapestry 1

Storytelling in the form of tapestry, beautiful artwork.

The view from the top of Voortrekker
The view from the top of Voortrekker

Within Kruger residence 3

Dining room

Next stop, we were off to former President Paul Kruger residence, now a museum. As expected, luxurious deco from the old times could be seen.

Old Kitchen Utensils
Old Kitchen Utensils
Private train coach now parked at the muesuem
Private train coach now parked at the muesuem
Dutch Reformed Church opposite of Kruger House Museum, one that President Kruger used to visit.
Dutch Reformed Church opposite of Kruger House Museum, one that President Kruger used to visit.

We went on to drive past the church square, where our guide stopped the car for a while for us to take some pictures. He was a little jittery about the surroundings (I thought) and we quickly got in the car after some quick shots.

Palace of Justice at Church Square
Palace of Justice at Church Square
Center of Church Square where Paul Kruger statue stands
Center of Church Square where Paul Kruger statue stands
Union Building was the next stop
Union Building was the next stop
View from the Union Building
View from the Union Building

Later we drove to where former president Nelson Mandela was recuperating from illness.

Posters of well wishes on the walls outside the hospital
Posters of well wishes on the walls outside the hospital

Well wishers for Mandela

More posters in support for Madiba at the entrance. There were also a swarm of reporters waiting outside to get the latest news of the president.

This concluded the half day city tour of Pretoria. We headed for lunch en-route to Joburg, and we ate at Steers at one of the service stops “Ultracity”. Shortly we were on our way again.

South Africa version of ERP

Joburg had their own version of the ERP, just like ours in Singapore. This had not been put in use because there were still discussions why this was only available in Joburg and not in Cape Town.

City of Joburg developed according to the various gold mine locations during days of the gold rush. One such bank actually still had a abandoned mine at its basement, as a exhibition.

Standard bank with the gold mine
Standard bank with the gold mine

After visiting the bank, we drove to the highest building in Africa (still, as of 2013). Although there are only 50 storeys, it is at a height of 223m (according to Wiki), thus aptly Top of Africa.

Top of Africa

View from the Top of Africa
View from the Top of Africa

Next we drove to the Chancellor’s house where Mandela used to work with his partner OR Tambo and played a vital role in the shaping of how SA is today. Read up some history that were showcased in the Chancellor’s House windows.

A huge steel statue of Mandela as a boxer
A huge steel statue of Mandela as a boxer

After this, there were just more driving  through the city where we see the Mandela bridge and the Railway station, on the way to Constitution Hill.

Mandela bridge
Mandela bridge
First Railway Station
First Railway Station
Constitution Hill
Constitution Hill
Constitutional Court of South Africa which seats 11 judges
Constitutional Court of South Africa which seats 11 judges
Isolation cells for those who misbehave
Isolation cells for those who misbehave

After the short vision through the constitutional court and the prison cells and the exhibits, which had a bit of history on high profile prisoners such as Gandhi and about his life long mission of non-violence protest, it was time to leave. But not before a drive by one of the “notorious” streets of Joburg – Hillbrow

Street stalls on Hillbrow
Street stalls on Hillbrow

Drive by the “notorious” street of Hillbrow. Just saw a couple of street vendors selling their wares, nothing much really.

We were back at the hotel in the airport. Went to look for dinner at one of the various food court in the airport but choices were pretty limited. In the end, settled for some fish from Ocean basket which we brought back to the room to eat. Nothing much on TV either and thus we had an early night after a long day.

Escape Plan to South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe in August 2013

A brief summary on the itinerary

Escape Plan to South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe in August 2013:

Total duration 17D16N
Singapore is 6hrs ahead of South Africa
Flight time is 12hrs direct flight on SQ (converted Krisflyer points for free tix!) from Singapore to Johannesburg
Night flight on 2nd Aug, arrive on 3rd Aug Saturday, early in the morning.

Day 1 Pretoria and Joburg City tours (guided)
Day 2 Lion and Rhino Nature Reserve and Cradle of humankind (guided)
Day 3 Tydon Safari in Sabi Sands
Day 4 Tydon Safari in Sabi Sands
Day 5 Tydon Safari in Krueger National Park
Day 6 Return to Joburg via Paranorma Route
Day 7 Fly to Zambia, transfer by land to Botswana, Mowana Safari lodge, Chobe National Park
Day 8 Mowana Safari in Chobe National Park
Day 9 Transfer to Zimbabwe by land, Vic Falls Heli trip
Day 10 Vic Falls tour (guided), explore Vic Falls town
Day 11 Transfer to Zambia by land, Fly to Cape Town via Joburg
Day 12 Cape Peninsula full day tour
Day 13 City tour and V&A waterfront
Day 14 Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden and Hermanus
Day 15 Hermanus and Ostrich Farm
Day 16 Lambert’s Bay
Day 17 Home sweet home

This was not the initial plan that we have as we wanted to do a partial garden route. The weather was bad on our final leg in Cape Town and thus we changed the Garden Route planned on Day 14-Day16 to the those stated above in order to try spend more time in Cape Town.

Budget nature: Budget Buster 

The total costs spent is about SGD5.5k per pax (inclusive of main flight taxes, meals, souvenirs, books (lots of them), toys and macadamia nuts and wasted no-shows on hotels). The amount looks alot but considering the itinerary and the duration and comparing with some of the quotations I have inquired, it is of good value in my opinion.

Complexity: DIY for the seasoned traveller

I guess there’s going to be alot more planning to do if you are to arrange everything yourself. I was really concerned with the crime in SA and thus had prearranged all tours and transfer back at home. But it is really nothing much to worry about if you maintain the usual street smartness required and not visit places that you really shouldn’t go and you should be fine. I have seen many DIY tourists whilst travelling similar route and they seemed fine on their own.