SA 2013 Day 9 – Botswana to Victoria Falls

Another early start to the day, this time with much more crowd. The bus load of tourists were here, on top of the usual crowd. During move out, we were told to wait till our vehicle arrived, along with a few other guests. We waited and soon all the crowd cleared out except for the passengers that were to board the same safari vehicle as we. Again we were informed to wait, the vehicle that was supposed to pick us had broke down and they were sending another one. We had a sinking feeling that this was not going to be a smooth day for us, and we had to decide to abandon the tour if it came too late as we had to cross over to Vic Falls today and we might be late for that too. After waiting like for an hour since the guests left, the vehicle finally arrived. The female guide didn’t seemed sure of what was going on, took ages to get the warm drinks, drove really slowly to the Chobe park and took a lot of time with the registeration. Luckily, another familiar guide arrived soon and picked up from there. Soon we were moving but already day had broken.

Hippos were up and about today. Quite far from us though
Hippos were up and about today. Quite far from us though
Saw a group of Saber antelopes moving away when we passed them.
Saw a group of Saber antelopes moving away when we passed them.
Vultures. A closer shot.
Vultures. A closer shot.

The interesting part of the drive was when we drove into the path of a massive group of buffalos that came from the river. We were surrounded as they moved across the pathway into the land beyond.

Buffalo eating the shrubs
Buffalo eating the shrubs
Buffaloes crossing
Buffaloes crossing
Buffalo calf
Buffalo calf
Baby elephant amongst the adults
Baby elephant amongst the adults

No cats. After the break, we ventured more. The guide knows that we weren’t interested in the other animals and really tried his best to bring us to the lions’ territories. No luck though there were footprints. We heard news that previous days some of the safari passengers actually saw a lioness with her cub feeding on a buffalo in the park. We were unlucky and the lions were possibly full for these couple of days.

We saw a group of zebras, first time in the Chobe NP.

Zebras in Chobe
Zebras in Chobe
Huge Malibu stork
Huge Malibu stork

On the return, we saw a Jackal in the plains, first time for us. But safari experience did not turned out as what we hoped for. We saw and experienced the grandeur of existence in the wild but missed the infrequent predator presence that would really showcase the art of survival of these animals. We should revisit another safari in the future, Kenya perhaps?

Jackal, last rare sighting before going back
Jackal, last rare sighting before going back

As expected, we were late when we returned because the guide actually extended our stay at the park for the delay in the morning. So it was all a rush again. We wanted to put some items back into the luggage but the helpers had already brought out all our stuff and left them at the lobby. One helper assisted to bring back one of the luggage and we rushed to keep whatever we need to keep in the room, used the toilet and a final check before moving to a waiting safari vehicle that would ferry us to the Botswana and Zimbabwe check point. It was a 30mins drive and almost the same route back to the ferry terminal, only to turn at the cross junction. All the crossings was really just close to each other, so it was no wonder this trip with Chobe and Victoria Falls was so popular.

When we reached the crossing, we saw a long line of tourists waiting to get their passports chopped. After unloading the luggage, we searched for the Wild Horizons rep who easily recognized us (easy since it was not too difficult to identify Singaporeans from the other Caucasians). There we also recognised a Japanese family who shared the morning safari game drive with us. They were also going over to Vic Falls. Had a conversation with them and found that the husband was working in Joburg and they were there on a holiday before heading back to Tokyo with the kids. Awesome!

And the great thing that I pride myself as a Singaporean traveller is my red book of a passport. This document allows me to go many places without a need for a visa, and with that, less hassle at the customs and of course a short cut to the front of the queue. The rep took our passports, went to the customs, stamped the passports and we were on our way to the mini van, where the rest of the passengers were waiting. Another 1hr ride, the van reached Vic Falls area, delivered the 2 groups of passengers to their respective hotels and finally to ours, Ilala lodge, which was closest to the Vic Falls. Check in and went to the activities counter to book our heli ride to check out the falls.

Nice colonial deco at the main waiting hall
Nice colonial deco at the main waiting hall
Desktop available for surfing the internet
Desktop available for surfing the internet
Room was reasonably comfortable with a full view of the outside
Room was reasonably comfortable with a full view of the outside
Bathtub available though the tiles make the toilet look old
Bathtub available though the tiles make the toilet look old
Separate rain shower
Separate rain shower

There wasn’t much time and soon the Shearwater group rep was at the lobby to pick us up for our flight. Travelling some 15mins to the helipad, we waited for our turn and looked around the shop of sourvenirs. The helicopter could pick up 6 passengers at a time. We were lucky to secure a slot because these trips were really always fully booked. The best seat was obviously the front one beside the pilot and you had to be shameless to really get that seat. The back had 5 seats and if you took the middle one, which I did, you might not get the best pix. I had to move into a position cleared of the body parts of the passenger beside the window to have a good shot of the falls.

Before boarding the heli, the crew would take photos and video the whole experience on the helipad location. Therefore, if you had the intention to purchase anything, you gotta remember to look good. It was kinda costly to purchase those photos and video, which in my opinion was nothing much as it did not feature video shots on the flight itself but a video of the falls taken (god knows how )long ago. Not much a value to me. This was of course shown to us after the flight and no one from our group bought it. We were pretty sure those images on our cameras were worth much more.

Shearwater helicopter
Shearwater helicopter
Different package, different route, different price of course!
Different package, different route, different price of course!

We took the cheaper option Flight of Angels, at a price of about 180SGD per pax for a 15mins flypass experience, tilting at both sides for equal amount of time.

Zambezi river while flying towards the Falls
Zambezi river while flying towards the Falls
After the gorge comes the falls
After the gorge comes the falls

1vFalls 15

1tFalls 13

1sFalls 12

1rFalls 11

1ofFalls 9

1wFalls 16

1qFalls 10

1uFalls 14

Just fired away! You had only 15mins, what would you expect? Vic Falls is magnificent from the skies and an experience worth the money. I supposed the microflight would be interesting too, just that it was only offered at the Zambian side.

1xFalls 18

1yFalls 23

Rainbow shot
Rainbow shot

After the sales pitch in the form of the video presentation, we left the area, boarding the vehicle that brought us back to the lodge. Hungry since we hadn’t had lunch, we went into Vic Falls town to look for food.

Railway track that runs through this town
Railway track that runs through this town
Had some tapas for lunch instead.
Had some tapas for lunch instead.
There were baboons everywhere. Have to be careful as they could be aggressive in front of food.
There were baboons everywhere. Have to be careful as they could be aggressive in front of food.

After lunch, we walked around town to see what’s available. It was a really small town, not really interesting. There were many tour agencies selling different activities packages and a few cafes and eateries. There were also people that goes around selling trillions of Zim currencies. I bought some but did not checked myself, there was just too many zeroes. I googled when I was back in the hotel and then I knew the biggest one was 100 trillion dollars. The rest of the 8-10 notes costs me 5USD.

Saw a warthog just outside our room. Very amazed to stay so close to animals.
Saw a warthog just outside our room. Very amazed to stay so close to animals.

The pickup from the hotel came about half an hour before the cruise and luckily we were informed by the recept that that’s the norm for waiting. The bus we boarded proceeded to go to a few places to picked up the other passengers for the cruise. About 30mins and we arrived at location. Saw a group of native africans dancing and singing, as a performance for the people on the ferry. That was also to promote their CD that consisted of their music. The wait to move off was really long as tour buses and mini vans arrived bit by bit and passengers slowly boarded the ferry. Went to the front of the ferry (away from the drinks bar) to get the best view.

Saw naughty baboons going into the car.
Saw naughty baboons going into the car.
Dancing and singing hard to get some sales going
Dancing and singing hard to get some sales going
Cruising as the sun goes down
Cruising as the sun goes down
As we cruise towards the falls, we see hippos near the tiny islands.
As we cruise towards the falls, we see hippos near the tiny islands.

2iAnother hippo yawning

Another yawning hippo
Another yawning hippo
Mist in the distance, where the falls was. Our ferry was not heading that direction.
Mist in the distance, where the falls was. Our ferry was not heading that direction.

The ferry was an easy ride along the Zambezi, with introduction to the falls, the surrounding and the wildlife around. Drinks were unlimited which included the various types of beer that you could try from around the region. There were some snacks too.

Sunset on the Zambezi
Sunset on the Zambezi
The sun here is gentle on the eyes too
The sun here is gentle on the eyes too

When we arrived back at the jetty, the dancers are still there, seemingly giving the passengers a second chance at purchasing their CD. But tough luck, the passengers left for the waiting buses. I supposed if there is another day to dance and sing, there is hope.

The return trip was boring as there weren’t anything to see. We passed by a couple of hotels where passengers alighted and we were the last ones to alight. Back at the hotel, there was a restaurant but we weren’t exactly liking it. Was a little uncertain about walking into town since it was not really brightly lit but we went anyway. It was actually not that bad. Made it to a restaurant called Mama Africa and it was crowded! We didn’t have any reservations and thus waited for about 20mins for a seat. Ordered crocodile steak and had to wait another 30mins at least due to the crowd. While waiting, a another native group of dancing singers came to promote their CD. Difference was there were people from the crowd that joined them for the dance. Some entertainment. Food was ok and as expected, tasted like rubbery chicken but definitely worth a try for some native cuisine.

Went back after dinner for internet and TV and a great sleep on the King size bed.

SA 2013 Day 8 – Chobe National Park Safari Day 2 and Sunset Cruise

Morning game drive was just like the one we had in Kruger. The stark difference was that in Mowana, there are a lot of people! Everyone was up before day break and was gathering near the big Baobab tree in the middle compound of the lodge where cold coffee and tea and small pastries were served. Many safari vehicles rolled in at the entrance and guests loaded up the vehicles. We boarded the vehicle and we were on our way for cats spotting!

Sunrise over Chobe
Sunrise over Chobe

Caught a glimpse of cute and funny pair of honey badgers. One was even rolling and walking backwards.

Honey badger rolling on the ground
Honey badger rolling on the ground
Sniffing around
Sniffing around
A pair of honey badger
A pair of honey badger
Kori Bustard, biggest flying bird
Kori Bustard, biggest flying bird
Malibu Stork on a tree
Malibu Stork on a tree
Buffalo on the plains
Buffalo on the plains
Passed by a buffalo which looked surprised.
Passed by a buffalo which looked surprised.

As we moved to the locations where prides normally roamed, we also saw many vultures on the tree. It was possible they were waiting for food that a predator was still feeding on, which meant that maybe a cat was nearby? We were hoping. The vultures could be just waiting for the sun to warm up that’s all.

Vultures waiting for the sun
Vultures waiting for the sun

After driving around for some time, and had seen the same type of wildlife, we reached the rest stop for some warm drinks. Still an hour left, we might still catch a cat. Chances were low though, since cats would go into hiding from the afternoon sun and did their hunting in the early mornings or late evenings.

Rest stop for breaks
Rest stop for breaks

An hour left and we were soon on our way back. There weren’t game drives anymore and so we thought, since there was still some time in the morning the next day, we were going to book an extra game drive the next day.

A family of Chacma baboon as we were leaving the park
A family of Chacma baboon as we were leaving the park
Huge male baboon
Huge male baboon
Hippos enjoying the coolness before the sun comes up
Hippos enjoying the coolness before the sun comes up
Herd of elephants in the distance
Herd of elephants in the distance

Still no sightings. Went back to the hotel for breakfast and booked the game drive for the next day, which came up to be about 100SGD per person. Took the chance to roam around in the lodge. There was a bar with a clear view of the river, a small souvenir shop where we managed to exchange some USD with Botswana currency for my collection. There was also a swimming pool with a bar and some putting greens near the entrance. Nothing that really interested us. We went back to our rooms for internet and rest.

View deck
View deck
Swimming pool and bar
Swimming pool and bar
Tswana chicken for lunch, African cuisine
Tswana chicken for lunch, African cuisine

Ordered dine in lunch since when we were not in favour of the buffet offered since we were still full from the buffet breakfast in the morning. Also, we were concerned that if we had our lunch too close to the sunset cruise, we might get seasick. Not the tastiest of chicken though.

When it was time, we boarded the ferry which was just within walking distance from our rooms, since there was a jetty by the lodge. This sunset cruise was something like the game drive but on river. We got to go closer to those in the river than we could on the safari jeep.

Boarded a ferry
Boarded a ferry
Hippos in the water
Hippos in the water
Another cruise moving along the streams
Another cruise moving along the streams
Saw a bunch of young baboons monkeying around
Saw a bunch of young baboons monkeying around
Elephants on the central plains across the river
Elephants on the central plains across the river
View of the river and wetlands from the ferry
View of the river and wetlands from the ferry
Many crocodiles laid on the wetlands, where other animals also roam. Coexistence of predator and prey?
Many crocodiles laid on the wetlands, where other animals also roamed. Coexistence of predator and prey?
A spy amongst the buffalos?
A spy amongst the buffalos?

We weren’t expecting to see cats on this trip but it was a refreshing trip, different experience from the drive. Also amazing to know that the river is shared by Namibia and Botswana, and so on the opposite bank was Namibia already. And of course, sunset cruise won’t be complete without the sunset!

Cruising along the gentle waters watching the sun set.
Cruising along the gentle waters watching the sun set.
Hippo about to enter the water
Hippo about to enter the water
The familiar yolk is gentle on the eyes
The familiar yolk is gentle on the eyes
Sun beams cut across the sky
Sun beams cut across the sky
Mirror image of Heaven on Earth
Mirror image of Heaven on Earth

By the time we returned to the jetty, the sun had set completely. Dinner was served in the same location, also buffet style.Again we were joined by the same lady from the previous day for dinner. There were more people as a bus load of Japanese tourists just arrived that afternoon. The in-house singer was more enthusiastic than before, even singing some Japanese songs. Nice atmosphere for the group as they even joined the singing at some point. We retired early in preparation for a long day ahead.

SA 2013 Day 7 – Zambia to Botswana Chobe National Park Safari

Our next destination was up north to visit Chobe National Park in Botswana and the Victoria Falls in Zimbabwe. There were typically 2 ways to get there, which was either to fly to Zimbabwe Victoria Falls airport or fly to Zambia like what we did. Before the trip we found that flying to Victoria falls directly should be faster but it was a long weekend that week for the Africa (Woman’s Day) which falls on the same day as our Singapore National day and thus there was a price hike for the British Airway flight. So I opted for flight to Zambia Livingstone instead and that gave me some hundreds of dollars savings. The flip side was that Zambia is a definite Yellow fever zone and thus we gotta get ourselves a jab (which you could opt out if not going into Zambia) before the trip, which was not cheap either. And the customs did insist on the documentation for the jab, a yellow little book that we had to carry throughout the trip. Our jabs were administered in Tan Tock Seng Hospital, traveller’s clinic some 2 weeks before the trip along with the other jabs for Hep B, Tetanus and Rabies. There weren’t mosquitoes in the safari in SA due to the weather but still the jabs were precautions.

It was really great to just walk to the airport for our flights. But for the BA flight, it was pretty confusing. The airport has 2 terminals which were splitted into domestic flights and international. We had to go over to the domestic terminal to check in since the counter was there and then walk over to the international terminal boarding gate, which was a good 10mins of walking. There was a luggage wrapping service which we utilized, having heard of the many luggage security issues and it costed about 10 bucks per luggage and of course tips for the wrapping guy.

Africa's contours as seen from the plane
Africa’s contours as seen from the plane
The plane also passes Vic Falls, a pretty sight!
The plane also passes Vic Falls, a pretty sight!

With just under 2 hours flight time, we arrived at an air strip in the huge open brown land and a tiny little airport welcomed us to Zambia.

Arrival corridor. No modern passenger transit arm at this rustic airport.
Arrival corridor. No modern passenger transit arm at this rustic airport.

Airport was really small. There was only one luggage conveyor belt. Once you go through the doors to the hall, you immediately reach 2 customs counters and immediately after, the conveyor belt. Luggage had to be loaded manually on the outside and only then the conveyor belt started moving. We cleared the customs quickly but had to wait for the luggage. As the luggage kept coming in, porters came to remove the unclaimed ones to the sides, their owners still waiting stuck at the customs. It was starting to get crowded, but was manageable since there were just passengers from our plane. Soon, we were on the move and met the guide at the entrance of the airport.

View of the airport
View of the airport

Our destination was the Mowana Lodge in Botswana and it seemed we were the only people going from Zambia. The vehicle with a tow cart for the luggage was for us only. Nothing much to see in Zambia as the surrounding was just leafless trees and sand. About more than an hour’s drive, we reached the border crossing, separated by a river. Chopped our passport and took a small ferry across to Botswana.

Little house in Zambia.
Little house in Zambia.
Leaving Zambia's bank to Botswana at the Kazungula crossing
Leaving Zambia’s bank to Botswana at the Kazungula crossing

It was a short 15mins across the river and soon we were at Botswana customs. The guide brought us onto a safari vehicle, drove us to the customs and we were on our way to the lodge. Botswana was really interesting. Wild animals were everywhere. We saw elephants near the crossing and baboons close to the line of heavy vehicles waiting to make the crossing to Zambia. The assimilation of the wild and humans.

Herd of elephants we saw near the crossing.
Herd of elephants we saw near the crossing.

Drove for a while till we reached the town of Kasane and another 10mins or so, we reached the lodge, with a huge Baobab tree right by its entrance.

Baobab tree
Baobab tree

By the time we reached the hotel and check-in, it was also time to move off for the game drive in Chobe National park. We had to rush to complete the registration concurrently sipping on our welcome drinks, went over to the activities counter to sign in and rushed up onto the jeep that already had a Joburg family waiting for us to move off. The weather here was different and thus no cold wear was necessary. Left the luggage behind and we were on our way to Chobe.

Skeletons of wildlife placed at the entrance to the park.
Skeletons of wildlife placed at the entrance to the park.

It took about 20mins to reach Chobe National Park. Just like Kruger NP, this was a public park where people could drive on the main tracks into the park to view wildlife but not allowed to exit their vehicle. However, there were stipulated opening hours and thus night drive was not allowed. As usual, the main targets were still the cats.

Our safari vehicle
Our safari vehicle
Red beak hornbill which we did not see in Kruger
Red beak hornbill which we did not see in Kruger

The animals were looking almost the same as what we previously saw. The surrounding was different from Kruger, there was much more open spaces and also a river in the park itself. It was a different kind of safari experience altogether.

Male giraffe (darker spots) looking for a partner
Male giraffe (darker spots) looking for a partner
Herd in the open close to the river
Herd in the open close to the river
Mud covered tree from the elephants that brushed themselves onto the tree to scratch itself.
Mud covered tree from the elephants that brushed themselves onto the tree to scratch itself.

Moving around the park, everyone was really wanting to see some cats because there wasn’t much enthusiasm when we saw other wildlife, at least compared to our first encounters. There were some interesting sights though.

Came about a buffalo carcass. Died from old age probably.
Came about a buffalo carcass. Died from old age probably.
Giraffe licking the ground for salt. Bird trying to catch some food from the river
Giraffe licking the ground for salt. Bird trying to catch some food from the river
Pot of hippos out in the open.
Pot of hippos out in the open.
Warthog also digging away for food
Warthog also digging away for food
Eagle perched on top of the tree
Eagle perched on top of the tree
Elephants with muddy socks. Just out of the river.
Elephants with muddy socks. Just out of the river.

Similarly, the game drive also planned a sundown rest stop. At the rest stop, passengers could get off to go to the restroom and have a beer. Though it was still within the park, the rest stop was made for this purpose and relatively safe from the wild animals or at least when we were there. No cats so far.

Beautiful sunset. It is like a yolk on cotton in the sky.
Beautiful sunset. It is like a yolk on cotton in the sky.
Saw 2 banded mongoose
Saw 2 banded mongoose

Saw the usual herbivore herds of impalas, kudus, giraffes and others like warthogs and baboons. Went back to the lodge, disappointed and hungry. Better luck tomorrow maybe?

Went to our room, loved the size and the bed and the wifi that comes with it
Went to our room, loved the size and the bed and the wifi that comes with it
Nice patio to sit out. Pretty close to the river too.
Nice patio to sit out. Pretty close to the river too.
Comes with a bathtub
Comes with a bathtub
And a separate rain shower
And a separate rain shower

Had a short rest in the room before heading out for dinner at the restaurant which was included. Buffet spread with lotsa types of meat. There were also exotic flavours such as kudu meat and a dish with cooked bugs, which I did not try! Food was ok Also met a local lady who joined us for dinner and a little conversation before we left for the room. Watched TV, surfed net and slept.

Escape Plan to South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe in August 2013

A brief summary on the itinerary

Escape Plan to South Africa, Botswana and Zimbabwe in August 2013:

Total duration 17D16N
Singapore is 6hrs ahead of South Africa
Flight time is 12hrs direct flight on SQ (converted Krisflyer points for free tix!) from Singapore to Johannesburg
Night flight on 2nd Aug, arrive on 3rd Aug Saturday, early in the morning.

Day 1 Pretoria and Joburg City tours (guided)
Day 2 Lion and Rhino Nature Reserve and Cradle of humankind (guided)
Day 3 Tydon Safari in Sabi Sands
Day 4 Tydon Safari in Sabi Sands
Day 5 Tydon Safari in Krueger National Park
Day 6 Return to Joburg via Paranorma Route
Day 7 Fly to Zambia, transfer by land to Botswana, Mowana Safari lodge, Chobe National Park
Day 8 Mowana Safari in Chobe National Park
Day 9 Transfer to Zimbabwe by land, Vic Falls Heli trip
Day 10 Vic Falls tour (guided), explore Vic Falls town
Day 11 Transfer to Zambia by land, Fly to Cape Town via Joburg
Day 12 Cape Peninsula full day tour
Day 13 City tour and V&A waterfront
Day 14 Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden and Hermanus
Day 15 Hermanus and Ostrich Farm
Day 16 Lambert’s Bay
Day 17 Home sweet home

This was not the initial plan that we have as we wanted to do a partial garden route. The weather was bad on our final leg in Cape Town and thus we changed the Garden Route planned on Day 14-Day16 to the those stated above in order to try spend more time in Cape Town.

Budget nature: Budget Buster 

The total costs spent is about SGD5.5k per pax (inclusive of main flight taxes, meals, souvenirs, books (lots of them), toys and macadamia nuts and wasted no-shows on hotels). The amount looks alot but considering the itinerary and the duration and comparing with some of the quotations I have inquired, it is of good value in my opinion.

Complexity: DIY for the seasoned traveller

I guess there’s going to be alot more planning to do if you are to arrange everything yourself. I was really concerned with the crime in SA and thus had prearranged all tours and transfer back at home. But it is really nothing much to worry about if you maintain the usual street smartness required and not visit places that you really shouldn’t go and you should be fine. I have seen many DIY tourists whilst travelling similar route and they seemed fine on their own.